KUALA LUMPUR JALAN TUNKU ABDUL RAHMAN

Originally called Batu Road, Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman was once a dusty track leading north out of the city to the caves and tin mines at Batu village. The modern Jl TAR leads through a historic section of the city, passing Little India. Named for its South Indian style mosque, the main street of Little India is Jl Masjid India, which is crammed with Indian sari shops and halal restaurants. Little India has all the feel of a Middle Eastern bazaar, especially during the Saturday pasara malam (night market).

Further north along Jl TAR many of the buildings are modern, but one surviving colonial relic is the Coliseum Hotel. Enter through the saloon doors to the bar, where you can relax and sip your drink in a planter's chair where Somerset Maugham once sat.

The Coliseum's wealthy owner began his business empire here in 1921 and the hotel hasn't changed in decades which is said to be good luck in the Chinese tradition. The Coliseum Cinema next door screens the latest Bollywood extravaganzas. Jl TAR is good for shopping during the day,and you can browse in the long running Globe Silk Store for cheap clothes and batik.

Further north is Chow Kit, once (and arguably still) KL's famed red light district. Though attempts have been made to clean the area out, it's still fairly seedy, especially at night. The Chow Kit Market has a gaggle of roadside vendors, and all manner of goods are on sale.

The area around the City Villa Hotel is crammed with hawker stalls, good for satay and nasi lemak (rice boiled in coconut milk, served with accompaniments such as peanuts, fried anchovies and a curry dish).